Follow Eater editors as they share their favorite dishes around town

The editors of Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here now, the very best of everything the team has eaten recently.

When Leonardo DiCaprio announced that he prefers pupusas over tacos last week, the internet exploded with opinions. However you feel about Leo’s statement, the man said what he said, “I’m a pupusa man myself.” Fortunately, LA is rife with options for both tacos and pupusas. Delmy’s Pupusas hops around SoCal farmers’ market throughout the week, which is probably the most convenient sustenance while shopping for fresh produce. Left on the griddle long enough to secure a slightly crispy exterior, Delmy’s Pupusas are stuffed with Salvadoran-style chicharrón and cheese. Eat the pupusa right away, or wrap one in a napkin for quick bites after it cools. 1600 Ivar Ave., Hollywood. —Mona Holmes

Bill Elwell has been plugging away on the flattop grill ever since he opened this Van Nuys burger stand in 1965. Grab a seat at the L-shaped counter to watch the master at work—the best spots are the two stools closest to the grill. While Bill’s signature burger is a simple and satisfying creation, it’s his double-decker patty melt that deserves your attention. Two slices of rye are buttered and griddled ‘til crisp-golden, while a duo of patties are cooked all the way though. Thick slices of American cheese and a smattering of chopped and grilled onions add the finishing touches. Meat, cheese, bread, onions...what more do you really need? 14742 Oxnard St., Van Nuys. —Cathy Chaplin

The new Mizlala in West Adams is absolutely packed to the rafters these days, thanks to a combination of outdoor seating, inexpensive prices, and big flavors. The corner location just across from Alta teems mostly with locals, including many young families, who line up to order pita sandwiches and stacked shawarma plates. It’s a fun, delicious time, and offers a blueprint for how to do community-friendly dining right in rapidly changing neighborhoods like West Adams. 5400 West Adams Blvd., West Adams. —Farley Elliott

Jeremy Fox’s lovely new Santa Monica restaurant goes into an industrial section of Santa Monica with the same feel as Downtown’s Arts District. Slightly deserted but totally expected, the new Rustic Canyon group restaurant was buzzing with a full dining room and patio. Birdie G’s is an ode to the American comfort fare that Fox grew up with, and his version of a Hangtown fry comes with fried oysters, wood-grilled pork belly, and a schmaltzy matzo-fortified egg scramble. He dabs on creamy hot sauce hollandaise for an elevated take on the California classic that became popular at San Francisco’s Tadich Grill. It’s a heavy dish that’s best to share, though with so much fatty goodness on the plate, it’s hard to stop taking forkfuls of everything at once. 2421 Michigan Ave, Santa Monica. —Matthew Kang

Long Beach has leaned into its position as a second city in greater LA County, with its restaurants often happily turning inwards to satisfy its hungry local base. That sense of community engagement is on full display at Gusto Bread, the limited bakery that cooks out of a private home down a side street well off the main commercial drag. The place popped to larger prominence after a feature by the LA Times a while back, but the lineup of fans who crowd through the front door — often leading to a full sellout just an hour after opening — is still decidedly mixed, with families, friends, neighbors, and travelers all waiting on the porch for their chance to snag one of Gusto’s freshly-made baguettes. The wait is worth it, as the bread is warm and just the right amount of crusty. If traveling for the stuff, the move may well be to get an extra one to munch on for the drive back home. 928 Chestnut Ave., Long Beach. —Farley Elliott

The omakase commenced with a single Kushi oyster from Seattle. Shucked, chilled, and ponzu’d, the first course set the tone for the feast to come. Chef Hiroyuki Naruke, who ran a six-seat sushi bar in Tokyo’s Roppongi district prior to relocating to Los Angeles, orchestrates one of the finest omakase experiences in town. From the tsumami (small appetizers) at the start to the parade of sashimi and nigiri sushi that follow, every morsel tastes incredibly pure, only enhanced with delicate brushes of soy sauce or a bit of grated fresh wasabi. It’s amazing how by eschewing elaborate bells and whistles and taking a truly minimalist approach, Q yields the maximum amount of pleasure. 521 West 7th St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Los Balcones in Studio City is the true definition of a neighborhood restaurant. People get there without jumping in a car and staff treats regulars like friends. It’s a joyful place to sit and eat. And though it’s always nice to have a good restaurant within walking distance from home, it’s worth making the trek from wherever you reside because the food stands up in ways that are unexpected. Take the costilla de short ribs, which fall off the bone after six-hours of slow cooking in beer, tomatoes, aromatics, and chiles. Los Balcones’ charming chef Polit Castillo carefully places them in what’s best described as a stylish serving tray filled with seriously caramelized bananas, a distinctly South American salsa, a traditional rice and lima bean cake called tacu tacu, and a perfectly fried egg. It’s hearty and wonderful. 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City. —Mona Holmes

Is there a more excellent fish in Los Angeles than the whole grilled snook from Coni’Seafood? I’ve had numerous people tell me I had to try the famed Contramar in Mexico City, and while that is excellent, this massive 2.5 kilo fish at Coni’Seafood is reason enough to skip the CDMX edition. I’ve had the pescado zarandeado at Coni’Seafood at its newer Centinela location twice over the past month and it’s just as good as the Inglewood original. Take apart the flakey, but hefty river fish, and taste the kiss of the grill’s fire along with an even smothering of chile paste. The oily, tangy onions are the only accompaniment, though a squeeze of lime and maybe some of the potent salsa work well for makeshift build-your-own tacos. The pescado zarandeado is a supremely delicious fish, and possibly the best lunch for three in LA. 4532 S. Centinela, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

In a summer flooded with burgers on social media, the exceptional double at the new weekend-only Burgerdaddy pop-up on Melrose stands out. Despite the goofy name, the burger here is all business, relying on classic ingredients (American cheese, commercial white bun, pickles, chopped onions, mustard, and mayo) to play a welcome second fiddle to the beef, which Standing’s Butchery proprietor Jered Standing grinds right on the premises. The weekend pop-up happens right on Melrose in front of the butcher shop, and (thanks to a couple of thicker, well-salted patties) is a nice complement to the sea of smashed burgers hitting Los Angeles at the moment. 7016 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott

Drive past the Target on Eagle Rock Boulevard near Avenue 42, and just under the small “t” are a handful of red easy-ups and a consistently long line for Angel’s Tijuana Tacos. When I say long, an early Tuesday evening can result in a one-hour wait. On weekends, pros bring a chair, book, a cued-up podcast, and a fully charged phone while a plume of mesquite smoke wafts over patient locals. Everyone waits for Angel’s quesadillas, mulitas, vampiros, burritos, or tacos. The base is a handmade tortilla, and while selections include chicken, chorizo, cabeza, carne asada, the star is the al pastor. After pieces are cut off the vertical spit of stacked meat, indicate your prepared spice levels for the salsa, and eat immediately. 4211 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock. —Mona Holmes

It seems with the popularity of places like Avra, it’s only a matter of time until Angelenos wake up to the greatness of Greek food. Kassi Club, from Eveleigh and Elephante’s Nick Mathers (and his Wish You Were Here Group), brings an elevated sense of Greek fare with a stylish, if packed in, dining room along West Third Street. While the vibes and fellow diners might reflect an optimized trendy LA scene. There’s a DJ booth, lounge area with uncomfortably low seating, and a semi-open kitchen with a roaring open hearth. Despite all tha, the food is somewhat uneven.

Crudites and the eggplant dip are short on flavor while the texture of the calamari is a bit on the tough side. Thankfully the salt-baked branzino, priced at $80, steals the show, which comes already lifted out of the salt before it comes to the table. Wish a silky-soft texture and gentle roasty flavors, it’s an excellent version of this Mediterranean classic at a fraction of what a similar fish might cost at Avra. Oh and don’t skip the cocktails or dessert — the starting and ending codas at Kassi Club are pretty fantastic. (FYI, in case you were wondering, the official pronunciation of the restaurant is kah-zee club) 8422 W 3rd St., Los Angeles, CA —Matthew Kang

Following the footsteps of a beloved chef is no easy task, but when the new person in charge has a clear culinary point of view along with the passion and skills to back it up, the results can be even better than before. When chef Bruce Kalman decamped from the kitchen at Pasadena’s Union, chef Christopher Keyser stepped in without missing a beat. The current menu feels familiar enough for the regular crowd, smartly retaining crowd-pleasing favorites, but there’s new energy everywhere. The torchetti, a ridged and tubular canvas, comes topped with a Calabrese pork ragu, a dollop of ricotta, crispy rosemary leaves, and best of all, an intense dried chili oil that the chef calls “pizza grease.” It’s a spicy creation that defies expectations. 37 Union St., Pasadena. —Cathy Chaplin

It seems, these days, that there is more pizza than ever in Los Angeles. Some come from high-quality, dedicated chefs like Pizzana’s Daniele Uditi, and others are more deliciously utilitarian, like the cheese-crusted slices from Apollonia’s off Wilshire. The grandma pie from Prime Pizza definitely leans towards the latter, with its eight slices of square-sided goodness that just feels like biting into the best kind of personal nostalgia. Sinking into a checker-clothed table at the Little Tokyo location, beer in hand, and the Dodgers on TV, only adds to the effect. 141 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo. —Farley Elliott

It might be daring to try and serve a katsu sando in Echo Park, which Instagram star Konbi tends to dominate. But Ototo, the newish sake bar and drinking spot next door to Tsubaki, prepares its own fantastic version of the Japanese convenience store favorite. With hefty chicken thighs surrounded by crisp breading, Ototo’s version leans less on plush Japanese milk bread and more on the strength of the actual meat. The ratios here are certainly more generous than something at a Tokyo 7-11, but it’s well worth the premium. Mix in just the right amount of tangy-savory sauce and some crunchy cabbage, and it’s one sandwich that’s almost worth not sharing. Yes, get your own damn katsu sando. 1360 Allison Ave., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

The Highland Park complex that holds Hippo, Silverlake Wines, Go Get Em Tiger, and Triple Beam Pizza is one of northeast LA’s joys. One can spend hours sipping on coffee in the cozy covered interior, noshing pastries on the spacious patio, and picking up a bottle of wine on the way out. And while the options are plentiful, Triple Beam Pizza’s Roman-style pies are the casual winner, with lengthy lines that begin well before the counter opens at noon. It’s pretty perfect, actually, where employees cut a custom-sized slice, weigh it, and heat it up for any willing passenger. And that slice should be Triple Beam’s sausage pizza, with green garlic, leeks, scallions, red onion, fontina cheese, chives, and sausage. It’s flavorful, aromatic, and worth taking an extra slice home. 5916 N. Figueroa, Highland Park. —Mona Holmes

There’s always been more than just Chinese food to eat in Chinatown. From Nashville hot chicken to Big Easy beignets, the sheer number of cuisines offered in the neighborhood is truly remarkable. It can be hard to standout in a crowded market, but Okiboru manages to do so with seriously slurp-able noodles. Whether dipped in a funky broth a la tsukemen or ladled with hot soup a la ramen, it’s impossible to go wrong with strands this springy. The tonkotsu is especially fetching here, with its rich and milky pork broth and thick slabs of chashu. The noodles, thinner and flatter then the ones served with the tsukemen, keeps its cool in the face of scorching soup from the first bite down to the very last one. 635 N. Broadway, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Bon Temps, the new Arts District restaurant from Lincoln Carson, is already buzzing with diners eager to see what the longtime chef is doing with his first solo project. The former Fifty Seven and Petty Cash space looks fairly transformed, with an elevated mezzanine dining area, a separate wine room, and more free-flowing first floor featuring the cocktail and raw bar. Bon Temps is situated right next to Firehouse, but it seems like it’s an amenity to the boutique hotel, which kind of works for both restaurants.

The star at Bon Temps right now, at least in the savory section, must be the lamb prime rib, served in adorable little medallion pieces. One thing diners will immediately notice from the plating here is how nice everything comes out, to the proportions and garnishes to the overall refinement of the flavors. The lamb is mild but still patently gamey, which is a boon for anyone who loves the oft-forgotten meat. There’s a side of stacked soca and summer squash to give just the right midsummer seasonality to the dish. Bon Temps might play the part of approachable all-day Arts District restaurant, but the dinner menu has all the right pieces to earn a Michelin star right now. 712 S. Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

While I have a deep appreciation for dishes centered on offals, innards, and other less-loved bits, blood is oftentimes largely ignored on my end. I don’t have any bad blood towards the ingredient (sorry, I couldn’t help myself), it’s just never been fireworks between the two of us. On a recent night out at Here’s Looking At You, I tasted a blood-forward dish that was so incredibly delicious that it completely changed my mind about the stuff. Using pig’s blood as his muse, canvas, and binder, Chef Jonathan Whitener formed a loaf with the addition of cornmeal, butter, onions, garlic, chili flakes, and pork fat back. Sliced, pan-seared, and butter-basted to order, the blood cake arrived gloriously glistening. A fried duck egg, green tomato relish, and pickled mustard seeds provided the finishing flourishes. Rich, punchy, and delightfully different, every bite was bloody good (sorry, I couldn’t help myself). 3901 W. 6th St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

The full arrival of plus-80-degree summer days means a lot of things for Los Angeles, including patio nights and Saturdays spent with toes in the sand. It also means, for the most part, eating a little more lightly than usual, be that with more salads or less bread or trying something new altogether, like the vegan burger alternative from Burgerlords. The charming Highland Park shop skews towards a classic beef burger for most of its diners, but don’t sleep on the made-from-scratch vegan patties — especially when doubled up with a bit of vegan cheese. It’s a rich, hearty meal, but there’s something about packing in vegetables instead of red meat (at least for one meal) that just feels right every once in a while. 110 N. Ave 56, Highland Park. —Farley Elliot

It’s ceviche weather. Actually, the entire year is appropriate for ceviches, cold bars, and mariscos in Los Angeles. Gilberto Cetina’s minimal stand in Mercado La Paloma in Historic South Central is a block away from the 110, accessible, and perfect. Sit at one of the tables near the prep area to watch the staff breakdown an entire fish while sipping on bubbly lemonade. It’s a constantly changing menu, but if at all possible, try the scallop and uni ceviche. You’ll be asked to select your preferred uni just before it’s cut, scooped, and transformed into a bowl where the blend of scallop and uni are perfect together. With splashes of ocean and salt, dots of avocado, chiles, and lime. it’s simply a beautiful bite in a charming hall of restaurants and retail. Arrive early before this dish sells out. 3655 S. Grand Ave, Historic South Central. —Mona Holmes

It’s been years since I’ve been to Alimento in Silver Lake, Zach Pollack’s supremely delicious neighborhood restaurant serving Italian cuisine through a California perspective. Though the pastas and the small plates are terrific, especially the fusilli with clams and smoked butter and the chicken liver pate, the one dish that stole the show was the radicchio caesar salad imbued with anchovy and Parmigiano. I loved how the salad resembled a full chop, with just the crunchiest bite-size pieces dressed extremely lightly, properly distributing every bit of that dressing. It’s not often that I write about salads, or how much I like a particular salad, but this radicchio caesar at Alimento is a true standout. 1710 Silver Lake Boulevard, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

It’s hard to imagine improving on Christine Moore’s legendary salted caramels. Sweet, rich, and delicately salty, the hand-made candies fly off Little Flower’s shelves just as fast as the kitchen can wrap them in wax paper. While tinkering with a beloved recipe can be a risky endeavor, sometimes it can yield something so awesomely innovative that it manages to surpass the original. A recent collaboration between Little Flower and Red Boat fish sauce offered glimmers of this kind of greatness. Through chef Cecilia Leung’s measured experimentation, pure fish sauce and a bit of Cambodian palm sugar were added to the caramel’s profile. Every candy—rounded in its sweetness and pungent in its saltiness—tasted perfectly balanced and supremely addictive. Only available online through Red Boat. — Cathy Chaplin

Braised and smothered oxtails are pretty standard fare at soul food restaurants, so when a traditional dish takes an unusual turn, it’s kind of a big deal. And it’s not as if chef Keith Corbin is reinventing the oxtail wheel, he tweaked and fussed over the dish until it became a standout. With the help of Alta Adams’ sous chef Gwen Etta, the two bring salt, browning, aromatics, soy sauce, ginger, miso, onions, scallions, carrots, and oxtails together in a lovely way. No knives are required when cutting into the bones surrounded by gravy and fluffy rice, and what’s usually a rich dish is transformed into a lovely one, right in West Adams. 5359 West Adams Blvd, West Adams. —Mona Holmes

Sure, Los Angeles has a penchant for casual dining styles in places like strip malls and on street corners, but that doesn’t mean the rightfully-lauded chef Joshua Skenes can’t make his restaurant Angler work here. If anything, the semi-hidden Beverly Center location makes the place just as much a crown jewel as any tucked-away restaurant in a back yard or deep in the San Fernando Valley — except here, the final result is a multi-course meal that includes lots and lots of luxury. For starters, there is a seemingly simple banana pancake on the menu, it is used as a vessel for rich lobes of caviar spooned tableside. It’s a simple reintroduction to the glamorous life, and one of the best single bites of food anyone can enjoy in LA right now. Welcome to the city, chef Skenes. 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott

A couple years back, while in the thick of pregnancy-induced cravings, I created an off-menu beast at The Hat. Using the restaurant’s grilled cheese sandwich as the base, I requested the addition of pastrami to pair with the melty American cheese smooshed between two buttery slices of toasted sourdough. I adored the creation at the time but wondered if it was the hormones talking. On a recent visit to the palace of pastrami, I went ahead and ordered it again. The results? Simply, positively, absolutely divine. The cheese mellowed the pastrami’s intrinsic saltiness, while the golden sourdough bested the usual roll by a mile. A side of onion rings with ketchup made for a fantastically indulgent lunch. 5505 Rosemead Blvd., Temple City. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s impossible to step into the Manufactory at Row DTLA and not leave with some kind of carb high. The restaurants, marketplace, and production facility are practically packed to the rafters with breads of different sorts, including a pretty impressive pastry collection in the back corner of the marketplace and served out of the takeout window in the mornings. The stuff given for dessert at Tartine Bianco is similarly special, including a particularly creamy and soft carrot teff cupcake. When it comes to breads and pastries, there are no wrong answers at The Manufactory. 777 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles, CA. —Farley Elliott

If executed correctly, brunch can be an all-day affair. Strategic planning requires choosing the perfect dining partners and outdoor patio. And while Los Angeles is full of beautiful places to brunch, few are as gorgeous as Hotel Figueroa’s Veranda. Veranda could easily be mistaken for a Mexico City restaurant, so it seems appropriate that the breakfast tacos rank high on the menu. Handmade blue corn tortillas arrive warm and filled with chorizo, red onion, salsa morita, queso fresco, and a soft scramble. There’s a creaminess that’s savory and not too filling. Accompany this with a guayaba cocktail, a poolside view, and high ceilings. After finishing the meal, wander through Downtown for the rest of the day. 939 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Bavel continues to deliver one of the finest Middle Eastern dinners in Los Angeles, and this aged roast/grilled duck, served with a side of lightly dressed Belgian endive. The aging on this duck brings out such incredible flavor, with rich minerality and a balanced fattiness of the breast meat complemented by crisp endive. The leg spends time confitting in fat, so it’s a different texture than the kebabs, though the skin is equally crisp. This dish is a master class in simplicity, the elegance of Bavel’s flavor-packed approach, and a fine way to finish the savory portion of the meal here. 500 Mateo St., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

There’s a lot to like about the new weekend lunch at Majordomo: an airy room, a mellower crowd, and a menu that feels fresh yet familiar all at once. Dishes like the kimchi-kissed ceviche and the grilled dduk galbi riff on local staples, like mariscos and kebabs respectively, in playful and delightful ways. The dduk galbi dazzles with its sweetly spiced Korean marinade and charred and caramelized edges. Served atop lemony Jasmine rice and alongside the jammiest kimchi eggs, the whole thing tastes like Raffi’s met Koreatown and the two proceeded to have a baby. When galbi met koobideh, a true LA love story. 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s always hard to balance out the classic LA restaurants with the shiny and new, but it’s even harder to find a marriage of the two so perfectly executed as to make everyone happy. That seems to be, surprisingly, the case with the long-forgotten Dear John’s in Culver City, which is now reborn with a throwback menu thanks to Hans Rockenwagner and Josiah Citrin. The place has an expiration date on it (the whole property is being redeveloped in just over a year and and a half) but in the meantime, the room is a raucous dinner haunt with just 14 lively tables. Most of the kitchen and floor staff come from Melisse, Citrin’s fine dining spot that is closing to re-concept, and so both the food and service are absolutely on point. That’s particularly true for the slightly unorthodox chicken parm, which is presented as a breaded and fried cutlet with cheese inside, with a ramekin of red sauce to accompany. The dish loses nothing in its new presentation however, and is just as delicious (and timeless) as ever. 11208 Culver Blvd., Culver City. —Farley Elliott

A Santa Monica mainstay for 40 years, Michael’s is still kicking. Even as the neighborhood has changed throughout the last four decades, this spacious restaurant maintains a loyal following. Michael’s layout is still something to experience. The old-school feel is welcoming, and the entry’s airy lounge/seating area is plastered with some of the city’s best art collection. But the rear garden is where you want to be. If visiting during brunch, order the fluffy blueberry cornmeal pancake. You’ll only need one as the pancake is not dense; it’s a healthy size topped with a smear of butter, fresh blueberries, and warm maple syrup. The dish makes for ideal brunching, especially when accompanied by a perfectly sparkling rose. 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica. —Mona Holmes

I can’t remember the last time I had a chorizo breakfast burrito, but the creations at Chori-man in San Pedro are truly some of the most elemental and wonderfully constructed in the city. Humberto Raygoza packs in cooked chorizo with runny eggs, seasoned potatoes, and cheese down at his cheerful neighborhood restaurant. The chorizo, a red-tinted guajillo chile variant from Raygoza’s family recipe in Zacatecas, is loads better than any standard breakfast sausage. With a bit of June gloom to temper a normally sunny day, this burrito, paired with the completely average but somehow satisfying cup of $2 diner coffee, makes for a terrific meal in the charming bayside community. 2309 South Alma Street, San Pedro. —Matthew Kang

Los Angeles’s ongoing obsession with Italian food is very real, as evidenced by a generation of old school white tablecloth spots still thriving on the greater Westside — coupled with places like Felix, Jon & Vinny’s, Rossoblu, and Cosa Buona, of course. But what about the real gems like Pinocchio’s in Burbank, attached to Monte Carlo Deli? The steam table pasta spot often has a line out the door for sub-$10 plates of lasagna with meat sauce or eggplant parm, and the daily house wine comes in at an impossibly low price of $3.50. Forget the fancy stuff; time to feed the family at Pinocchio’s for a song. 3101 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank. —Farley Elliott

On a recent visit to Al Tannour in Anaheim’s Little Arabia District, I was treated to a fantastic rendition of Iraq’s national dish: masgouf zbeidi. The golden pompano—butterflied, splayed, and spiced just so—arrived hot off the grill with superbly crisp skin and plump flesh. While it is admittedly easier to eat a filet that’s been neatly sectioned and carefully deboned, the pleasures of diving into a whole fish cannot be matched. The masgouf zbeidi, with its plethora of nooks and unfamiliar bits, impressed with every bite—bones, eyeballs, and all. 2947 W. Ball Rd., Anaheim. —Cathy Chaplin

With the exception of a few neighborhoods like Artesia, rotis are a rare find in LA proper. It’s a shame really, because these round flatbreads filled with savory Indian gravies is heavenly. While in Toronto last week, I stopped into the nearly three-decades-old Ghandi Roti. The space is sparse and perfect, and locals praise it as the city’s best butter chicken roti. The firm shell feels like a burrito, but with a completely different flavor profile and and slightly thinner composition. A fork and knife is required to make one’s way through the layers of saucy, spiced chicken. Owner Avtar Singh does not adjust spice levels, so the faint of heart should steer clear altogether. Luckily, Artesia staples like Akosha The Great Cuisine Of India and Paratha Grill serve quality butter chicken for those in LA. 554 Queen Street West, Toronto. —Mona Holmes

Atrium, Los Feliz’ gorgeous back-alley restaurant, is an ideal romantic place to bring a date, or someone to engage in an intimate conversation. Chef Hunter Pritchet is not shy about bringing bold flavors to the menu, and the crispy oyster mushrooms is one of those dishes. Pritchett’s skill comes in maintaining the mushroom’s crunchiness is shown in this dish, with a deliciously sticky eel sauce glaze gives the impression that you’re eating meat, but it’s all plant-based and topped with smashed cucumber and sesame. Steer clear of the chiles if sensitive, and order a cocktail to help clear the palate before the next plate arrives. 1816 1⁄2 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Mizlala in Sherman Oaks is a fantastic restaurant but chef Danny Elmaleh decided to take his restaurant to the quick service realm in West Adams with a tight menu of Middle Eastern classics served in pita sandwich or plate form at very reasonable prices. The juicy chicken shawarma is an early winner, with a machine that slices the meat right off a spit. The plate comes with a generous smear of hummus, pickles, a side, and plush pita bread baked fresh. For around $15, it’s a fantastic lunch in the lovely patio that feels plucked right out of Tel Aviv. 5400 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

The Manufactory is easier to navigate in the evening when there are fewer dining options. While the informality of Tartine Bianco’s Market Bar might beckon on any given night, head toward the opposite end of the building for a drink at the Alameda Cocktail Club followed by a proper dinner at the Alameda Supper Club instead. Chris Bianco’s kind-of-sort-of Italian restaurant feels something like an effortlessly convivial dinner party complete with a menu that begs to be shared. It’s easy to jump right in to decadent pastas and amply portioned proteins, but take some time for a few “snacks” to whet one’s appetite. The cheddar and smoked ham toast, smothered with cheese and topped with grated ham, delivers all that’s rich, salty, and satisfying in three-and-a-half bites. It’s the kind of confident starter that sets the tone for the rest of the meal. 757 S. Alameda St., Suite 160, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Echo Park’s Brite Spot Diner is all the way back. The restaurant is once again keeping late night hours and beefing up its pie selections under new ownership (the folks from Ostrich Farm and Bar Calo), and there’s new energy about the place. The booths are still big and comfortable and the lighting just as midcentury modern as ever, but there’s a freshness to even staple diner dishes, like the oversized Cobb salad and hearty patty melt. It’s time to give one of LA’s more prominent aging diners another look. 1918 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park. —Farley Elliott

This week it’s the return of a classic: Sqirl’s beloved sorrel pesto rice bowl. It seems that every time I go back to Sqirl the outdoor dining situation gets bigger. The Virgil Village restaurant manages to pack in the crowds this way, but it also leads to an entertaining way to spend a Friday afternoon in the sun. Back to the pesto—this bowl comes loaded with flavor thanks to Jessica Koslow’s excellent recipe of brown rice tossed with an indelible sorrel pesto. Tangy, acidic notes come through thanks to lemon, vinegar, and feta cheese, while the restaurant’s patented lacto-fermented hot sauce provides the final kick. With paper-thin slices of watermelon radish and a poached egg, it’s a dish that defies the meaning of a brunch dish. 720 N. Virgil Ave #4, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

It’s late May, which means that all of Los Angeles is complaining about the seasonal chilliness. Comfort food is perfect for this time of year, and Italian always hits all the right notes. Cal Mare has plenty on its menu to soothe the soul, even after the mercury moves beyond 90 degrees in the coming weeks. The grilled octopus is combined with a chickpea preserve and bits of pancetta. It’s a simple dish, and chef Adam Sobel knows just the right amount of seasoning and acid to make it stand out. 8500 Beverly Blvd. Suite 115, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

A truly bizarre dish that strikes right into the nostalgic heart of every Korean-American, budaejjigae, or army base stew, is a mashup of American canned meats and Korean ingredients, a result of the tragic Korean War and its aftermath. The story goes that American armed forces were throwing out things like Spam, hot dogs, bacon, and baked beans and hungry South Koreans were fishing them out and incorporating them into a stew. The version at Haemaru, properly served on the table with a butane burner, is about the finest version of this comfort food one can find in Koreatown.

Using the restaurant’s soulful bone broth, Haemaru builds this dish with a foundation of chopped kimchi, baked beans, onions, tofu, and those canned meats, topping the dish off with instant ramen noodles and a single slice of melty Kraft cheese. As you eat this dish, the flavor deepens, with the faux smoky flavors of the meats melding into the broth. By the end, it’s unrecognizable, a thickened stew that defines #uglydelicious. And for $28.99, it easily feeds three hungry bargain-seeking late-night diners. 3498 W. 8th St., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

At Everson Royce Bar, booze and baked goods go hand in hand. It’s the kind of juxtaposition that speaks to those who can drink like sailors, but yearn for a bit of nostalgic innocence. Chef Matt Molina makes it all possible—and all within the confines of the most welcoming patio in the city. Start with an order of the flaky buttermilk biscuits served with honey butter. The salt-flecked biscuits, crisp-edged and impossibly tall, pair exceedingly well with any liquor-forward cocktail. Toward the end of the evening, probably around last call, place an order for a chocolate chip oatmeal cookie that’s toasty around the rim with puddles of molten chocolate throughout. There’s something wonderfully comforting, homey even, about indulging in some of the finest baked goods at one of the finest bars in town. 1936 East 7th St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

What a wonder Dune is. The casual Atwater Village restaurant barely has any seating inside, and the communal tables outside towards the street are shared with at least two other businesses, so even grabbing a chair under an umbrella in the wind can be tricky. But folks simply don’t care; they show up, wait in line, and grab plate after plate of creamy hummus, freshly grilled pita, and piles of greens, with pickled veggies on the side for good measure. Some folks opt for the falafel, a crispy bit of business that is among the best in town, but the better option may well be the lamb meatballs, imbued with a rich and meaty heft and lots of sear at its edges. It’s hard to go wrong either way at Dune, which has quickly become a staple everyday restaurant for dozens and dozens of Eastsiders eager to eat well, and healthily, even if there’s no chair to sit down on. 3143 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village. —Farley Elliott

From the sexy outdoor patio with a fireplace to the chilled-out interior and the Neapolitan-style pizza, there’s a lot of reasons to visit Antica Pizzeria in Hollywood. The pizza team—encased in a glass room off the patio with chairs for onlookers—pulls, stretches, and sauces for everyone’s delight before throwing the dough in the oven. The pies are huge and wonderfully satisfying with a spectacularly thin and chewy crust. The herbs shine through, with layers of flavor that can have diners in and out within a few minutes. But you’ll want to stay for the vibe. 1534 N. McCadden Place Los, Angeles. —Mona Holmes

To celebrate our ninth wedding anniversary, my husband and I booked a babysitter and a table at Charles Namba and Courtney Kaplan’s Echo Park izakaya. The menu of simply composed and deftly executed small plates didn’t let us down. There were pristine cuts of Amberjack sashimi to start, grilled chicken oysters somewhere in the middle, and the finest pork porterhouse to finish. I tend to avoid large-format proteins when dining out because they’re usually too hefty in size and price, but something about the promise of curry honey butter persuaded me to give it a go this evening. The koji-marinated pork came on the scene juicy, charred, and fanned neatly on a platter. The porcine notes took charge while the curried honey and fennel pollen gave us something to remember. 1356 Allison Ave., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Los Feliz restaurant Atrium has really found its footing of late. The place was packed to the gills on Friday night, playing hosts to early Mother’s Day revelers, locals eyeballing the cocktails, and date night-types who had heard there was a buzz about the semi-hidden space off Vermont. Everyone in their respective groups seemed to leave happy thanks to chef Hunter Pritchett’s menu of rethought basics, including the stellar crispy mushrooms, uni cacio e pepe, and a beguilingly simple grilled focaccia with kimchi butter and honey to start. It’s nice to see a neighborhood like Los Feliz embrace its new restaurant, even if that restaurant spends time serving a menu that’s just slightly left of center. 1816 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz. —Farley Elliott

The ubiquity of LA’s better-than-average Vietnamese food is something not to take for granted. In Pasadena’s Old Town, it’s a godsend, especially for a reasonable price point and casual vibes. At Saigon Noodle, the vermicelli noodles are very good, especially after the requested additions of grilled shrimp and crispy spring rolls to the grilled pork bowl. Dress the noodles and lettuce with some fish sauce-based nước chấm and toss to complete. The wonderful contrast of meats, textures, freshness, and substance explains why this dish is such a winner for me. For a standard-issue Monday lunch just steps from the office, it’s a fine way to start the week. 28 North Raymond Avenue. Pasadena. —Matthew Kang

Esters Wine Shop & Bar is an ideal Westside spot with gorgeous art deco style, chef Jeremy Fox’s addictive lavender almonds, a massive wall of unique wines, and the chopped salad Calabrese. Sure, there are plenty of sexier options, including a guest chef burger night on the right day. But consider this overlooked item, which serves multiple purposes. My leafy greens intake is pretty dismal when dining out, but this salad jumped out because of the addition of cubed Hook’s cheddar and salami with garbanzos, pickled Fresno chiles, green Castelvetrano olives, cucumber, and cherry tomato. The next step is to get one of Esters’ knowledgeable bartenders to recommend wine; locate the right spot at the bar, banquets, or patio, and enjoy. 1314 7th Street, Santa Monica. —Mona Holmes

Everyone knows that the best breakfast burrito is the one closest to you. Even so, Lucky Boy achieves something rare in the food world: consistency. It’s a miracle creation that somehow takes the kitchen of this Pasadena fast-food diner about 16 seconds to put together after ordering. The ratios are all there: fried potatoes/hash browns, egg, crisp bacon, cheese. The kicker here, I recently discovered from some longtime fans, is the addition of ranch sauce. Yes, it sounds slightly disgusting but truly the all-American sauce works. With the potatoes, the whole burrito takes on a luxurious tone, adding creamy richness and the bounce of dried herbs. Ask nicely for some pico de gallo to dab onto the burrito and a smirking cashier will hand some over in a paper tray covered with yellow parchment. It’s like a secret handshake. 640 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena. —Matthew Kang

Chef Sang Yoon and pastry chefs Anthony Greco and Megan Potthoff have managed to rework bagels and lox in a way that’s quintessentially Los Angeles. Chef Yoon has cured the salmon with mezcal, while Greco and Potthoff have built a less puffy bagel with masa and jalapeno, whipped “cream cheese” from cotija cheese, then added pickled red onions, and radishes. The tanginess of Mexican cotija hits a slightly sour and beautiful note, the chewiness and flavor of the bagel is just right, and the entire effort is a refreshing moment for anyone looking to chefs who keep pushing innovation with their dishes. 3229 Helms Ave., Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

The team at Otium knows a thing or two about how to get dinner started right. The cocktail list is equal parts potent and thoughtful, while the house bread — freshly baked naan — is as fantastic eaten straight as it is lavished with glorious fixings. With the days growing longer and the sun setting later, it’s hard to imagine a finer evening than one spent in the shadows of The Broad, slathering things like truffle butter, lardo, and chicken liver mousse on to hand-ripped hunks of naan, all while sipping something strong. If a cocktail isn’t quite enough to balance out the unctuous toppings, there’s salmon roe and even Royal Ossetra caviar to step up to the plate. 222 South Hope St, Los Angeles. — Cathy Chaplin

One of the perks of living in Los Angeles is not just the sunshine, but the great diversity with which to enjoy it. A slew of new rooftop restaurants have opened up in recent years to mix in with our existing patio and beachside dining culture, and now it’s practically possible for anyone in any part of town to partake in a little Vitamin D with their lunch. Take for example the Highlight Room atop the Dream Hotel in Hollywood. On weekends, the place can be packed with pool-goers and young clubby-types looking to party, but the rooftop spot is surprisingly mellow for a weekday lunch involving tacos, a fried chicken sandwich, and a salad (of course). Bonus points for anyone who can manage to make their workday a half-day, and spend the rest of the afternoon lounging near the water. 6417 Selma Ave., Hollywood. —Farley Elliott

Often the best meals in LA can seem to be the quietest at first, but they say a lot about place, people, and time. That’s certainly the case with the above tray of simple meat skewers enjoyed during a walk-around at last weekend’s Thai New Year celebration in East Hollywood. The blocks-long affair featured a couple dozen street food vendors hawking noodles and sweets and Thai teas, along with Muay Thai competitions, live music, art demos, and more. It’s not that each chicken and pork skewer was the best possible version of meat-on-a-stick cooked over charcoal, but rather that the simple act of eating it in the middle of a closed-down Hollywood Boulevard, surrounded by thousands of Angelenos in the fading Sunday sunshine, can make one feel like this big, sprawling city is also close, familiar, and effortlessly friendly. The skewers were delicious, but on their own they don’t scream out for attention on any “best” list; it’s the people that speak volumes.

French toast made a rare dinnertime appearance at Alexander’s Steakhouse in Pasadena on a recent night out. In place of the usual maple syrup, whipped cream, and mixed berry compote was a savory onslaught of Santa Barbara sea urchin and A5 wagyu beef. The powerhouse of ingredients, perched atop crisp-golden brioche, teetered ever-so-delicately with each bite. Steakhouses are better known for solid standbys rather than culinary creativity, but that’s not the case with chef Florent Courriol at the helm. With stints at Amber in Hong Kong, as well as L’atelier de Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong, under his belt, it’s no wonder that the menu is really giving folks something to talk about. 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena. —Cathy Chaplin

While chain restaurants can be a mixed bag in terms of quality, some have their specialties nailed down, like the prime rib at Black Angus. This past weekend, the beefy chain featured the roast cut and the results were really good given the price point. The one pound cut cost $33 and came with two sides, a solid baked potato and nicely grilled asparagus, with little cups of jus and horseradish cream. The beef was exactly rare with a solid char on the outside. The accompany jus was a little thin on flavor, while the horseradish was nothing to write home about. But something about this whole package, a plate of solid fare for around $30 bucks, was a great find in a landscape of increasingly expensive LA dinner options. 235 South Ikea Way, Burbank. —Matthew Kang

Now that I’ve seen last night’s astonishingly dark Game of Thrones episode, and the gut-wrenching “Avengers Endgame,” I’m a bit wrecked emotionally. And with social media turning things up to 11, this morning’s been a rehash of key moments, arcs, and newly deceased and beloved characters. As a fan, it’s too much, which is why food is my savior today at Colorado Donuts in Eagle Rock where owner Jeremy Lee is serving up cute, well-made, and not-too-sweet Avengers donuts. Simple glazed donuts come painted with the shield of Captain America and the faces of Tony Stark, the Hulk, and Spiderman. 1578 Colorado Blvd, Eagle Rock. —Mona Holmes

The Slaw Dogs space on North Lake is now home to OMMA Rice and Chicken, a full-service cafe serving fruit smoothies and all manner of Korean favorites like kimbap, fried chicken, kimchi pancakes, and bibimbap. The food, prepared with care by the smiliest of cooks, delights with its simplicity. The Spam fried rice — glossy grains, scrambled eggs, and chopped vegetables, along with a fried egg and size-able slab of Spam — serves up pure comfort in a bowl. When the week’s been long and another marathon is on the horizon, there is no better fuel. 720 N. Lake Ave., Ste. 8, Pasadena. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s easy to forget the wealth of excellent Cantonese seafood restaurants in Los Angeles, and the nearly two decade-old Sea Harbour continues to chug along with fresh crab pulled right out of the water. Dungeness crab isn’t quite at its peak this early in the season, but one could argue that the Sichuan-style seasoning, with a gentle simmering heat and red-tinted chili oil, does a nice job of making up for the skimpy but sweet crab meat. The only problem with ordering one of these is fighting over the best pieces, which in this case has to be the claws. 3939 N. Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead. — Matthew Kang

Having out-of-town co-workers descend on Los Angeles can always be reason to stress, particularly when they’re fellow food writers who expect to eat well — and often. One of the best eaters of the entire company is none other than editor-in-chief Amanda Kludt, who popped into the city for a few days to dine everywhere from Nightshade and Alameda Supper Club to Fiona on Fairfax. She already more than knows what she’s doing and where to go, so it was a relief to bring up Sonoratown as a quick second lunch option one day and have her heartily say yes. What followed was a walk-through of one of the city’s best newer taquerias, from the classic carne asada on flour tortillas to the endlessly delicious chivichanga with pulled chicken. A nibble of onion here, a splash of salsa there, some horchata and maybe a few tortillas to take home...it’s the kind of easy meal that can take the pressure off anyone, and lets out-of-towners lean into the kind of flavors and vibe that LA does so effortlessly. 208 E. 8th St., Downtown. — Farley Elliott

As far as Coachella dining goes, it is incredibly difficult to recreate dishes in a tent in the desert with 100 degree temperatures. Unless of course the establishment is KazuNori. Its unassuming, expertly made handrolls are a great fit for those looking to increase their salt intake in the low desert. The pop-up experience was no different than at any of its LA locations. A brief wait for a seat, and only $25 for a five-roll combo with toro, yellowtail, bay scallops, lobster, and the clear standout: blue crab. Made right before my eyes, the blue crab creation offered a welcome break from just about every other average food vendor at the annual music festival. 421 S. Main Street, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Los Angeles has no shortage of sushi, from high-end experiences tucked into strip malls to every corner spots doing omakase on the cheap. Towards the ceiling of that range is Sushi Ginza Onodera, the worldwide upscale phenomenon known for its clean lines, big price tag, and collection of Michelin stars. The LA location sits on La Cienega just a door down from E.P. & L.P., though it feels a world away from that (or any other nearby) scene. Step through for a serene evening where impressive fishes provide the show, particularly some lightly seared monkfish liver or wildly fresh kohada. 609 La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood. —Farley Elliott

The end of braised meat season is around the corner, soon to be replaced by lighter fare, warmer temps, and blooming jacarandas. This happens every year, of course, but that doesn’t mean that a sweet send-off isn’t warranted. For one final hurrah, head to Parsnip and settle into a generously portioned bowl of slow-roasted pork shoulder plopped atop creamy polenta with an apple onion sauce. A double punch of pork and polenta can be too rich, but there’s nothing a bit of vinegary red cabbage and pico verde can’t solve. Now that the last of the season has been fully savored with Romanian comforts of the fall-apart roast variety, let’s bring on spring. 5623 York Blvd, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Eggslut’s reputation as a formidable daytime eatery is based on a model that churns out breakfast sandwiches, coddled eggs, and burgers. Angelenos love it so much that they’re willing to wait up to an hour without complaint. It’s hard to imagine LA without Eggslut, even though it’s only been around since 2013. Founder Alvin Cailan keeps opening new locations, bringing the count up to five including outlets in Grand Central Market, Glendale, Venice, and The Beverly Center. He’s even moving beyond California with a spot at The Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas and another in London that’s opening this year. Whichever location one finds themselves, the sandwich to get is the sausage, egg, and cheese — pure melty goodness in a brioche bun with house-made turkey sausage, an over-medium egg, cheese, and a slightly sweet aioli. Unless arriving early, skip the Grand Central Market line and head to Glendale where the wait isn’t as insane. 252 South Brand Blvd., Glendale. —Mona Holmes

April doesn’t seem like the best time to have risotto, but these rather blustery spring evenings means a wide bowl of comforting Italian rice porridge totally fits the bill. Rossoblu’s seasonal offering, part of a big set menu we had recently for a bachelor party, served fantastic flavor in just a few spoonfuls. Creamy, still al dente rice comes lovingly stirred with a gently sweet lambrusco wine, gorgonzola, and just-bitter radicchio for a balanced bowl. The gorgonzola’s punchy flavor gets a nice tempering from the wine and leaves. Then the rich Parmigiano-Reggiano brings it all together for a textbook example of what a great risotto can be in, even in perpetually sunny California. Order this before it comes off the menu. 1124 San Julian St, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

A trip to the Santa Anita mall isn’t complete without a slice of Lady M’s super-fine green tea crepe cake. Slicing through 20 delicate crepes interspersed with matcha-infused pastry cream has a magical quality to it, quieting the din of shoppers, if only for a moment. It’s a tradition with my four-year-old, who might be even more enchanted by the cake than me. There’s something about forging memories within the confines of an indoor mall that makes me more than a little nostalgic for the days of dining at the Cheesecake Factory with my mom. Malls, mothers, memories...it must be a Southern California thing. 400 S Baldwin Ave E21, Arcadia. —Cathy Chaplin

Is there anything better on a road trip than a simple In-N-Out burger? Or maybe not so simple, depending on one’s preference for layers of meat and cheese, or grilled onions, or chopped chiles, or mustard-grilling or… The point has been made before, but it bears repeating: In-N-Out is America’s best driving burger. From the enduring roadside stand aesthetic to the inexpensive menu, fast service, and simple satisfaction with every bite, a burger here just matters more to the national burger conversation when it’s eaten in the sunshine just off some interstate. Don’t feel like debating the merits of the fries? Skip them altogether with a beefed-up 3x3 (add raw onion), and split a milkshake with whoever is riding shotgun. That’s what Southern California is all about. —Farley Elliott

Auburn is turning out to be one of LA’s most promising new restaurants under the helm of fine dining veteran Eric Bost. The space is absolutely gorgeous, with a wonderful clean design and just the right accents. It’s a place that feels at once welcoming and different, stark in its minimalism but also cheerful enough from the pops of greenery and its open ceiling. You almost wish you could live in it. And living here would be even better if this was the kind of the food you could eat on a daily basis.

Bost serves this roast turnip dish that hides raw Spanish mackerel beneath, all of which settles into a shallow pool of aged pork broth. A fragrant allium oil dots the broth, and together the dish reminds me of something at San Francisco’s three Michelin-starred Saison: robust, brothy, and tempered by a subtlety that’s hard to describe. There’s a contrast of the fresh, meaty fish and the heft of those turnips that harkens a Japanese mentality. The turnip is emblematic of the rest of Bost’s food: focused and precise but ultimately pleasurable and delicious. Now the question is, will Auburn garner one or two Michelin stars of its own? 6703 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA. — Matthew Kang

It doesn’t get any more basic than venturing out for a plant-based brunch in Highland Park, but alas, here we are. With vegan-ish in-laws in town and bellies to be filled, Kitchen Mouse proved to be the perfect call this Sunday afternoon. While my mother-in-law dug into awesomely meaty jackfruit “crab” cakes and my father-in-law settled into a full English breakfast, my fork kept returning to my husband’s Snickerdoodle pancakes. Made from a trio of flours—oat, buckwheat, and corn—these pancakes proved heftier and denser than the average short stack in the very best way. The finishing touches, a dusting of cinnamon-coconut sugar and a dollop of cinnamon-coconut sugar butter, made for the kind of rich and decadent brunch-time sweet that forks are futile to resist. 5904 N Figueroa St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Los Angeles’s taco scene at the moment is focused on two very big ideas: Bright red birria, and lots of carne asada by way of Tijuana. And while each genre offers countless spin-offs across the city, in Downtown there’s one man doing something much simpler: tacos de canasta. The so-called basket tacos are also known more generally as tacos al vapor because they cook by being steamed slowly. In the de canasta case they’re cooked in transit after sitting, folded lightly, in a layer of cloth that’s covered with plastic wrap to keep the moisture in. The result is a plate of five smallish tacos meant to be slathered over with some pickled veg and salsa, and eaten with a fork (unless one is willing to get extra messy, which is always okay). And while al vapor tacos are not ubiquitous to Los Angeles right now, they can be seen fairly frequently for those in the know. Want some soon? Head down towards 4th and Los Angeles streets in Downtown, and look for the occasional man pushing a baby stroller topped with a basket full of tacos. It’s just that simple in LA. 4th and Los Angeles streets in Downtown. —Farley Elliott

Figuring out where to eat in LA can be a tricky affair. The entire county has over 10 million people, and with thousands of restaurants to choose from, it can get overwhelming. But sometimes luck takes over and an unexpected experience brings a gem into the fold. The breakfast burrito at El Torazo, which happens to be located next door to a friend’s Long Beach home, brings an interesting twist with its chopped ingredients—crispy potatoes, bacon, and egg—wrapped in a seared handmade tortilla. It’s in a sleepy part of Long Beach where parking is scarce, but worthy of the inconvenience for any breakfast burrito lover. 2801 E. 10th St., Long Beach. —Mona Holmes

Wolfgang Puck’s iconic Beverly Hills restaurant continues to prepare elegant lunches in the Golden Triangle, though it seems the crowd hasn’t changed much since the early aughts. Expect the odd sunglass-donning and Panama hat-wearing tourist couple, as well as a dining room full of ladies who lunch. There are still plenty of tables where Hollywood-types are making deals, but Spago still somehow feels inaccessible to the influencer set, which is fine by me. And while it’s probably due time to infuse a little freshness on the menu in the way of some more photo-friendly food, no one can deny themselves Spago’s classic veal wienerschnitzel. In a Keto and low-carb world, this gorgeous fried beauty looks completely out of place, but the fundamentals are here. Crisp breadcrumb coating, tender pounded veal, and everything you’d want on the side of this Austrian favorite. There’s still a sense that Spago hasn’t done anything new or innovative in the past few years, but maybe dishes like this wienerschnitzel are reason enough to return. 176 N. Canon Dr, Beverly Hills. —Matthew Kang

Some mornings are easier than others, sure, but it’s hard to see any day going askew when starting with a hearty bowl of lonestar migas from HomeState. The restaurant group already has busy locations in Hollywood and Highland Park and is soon to add in Playa Vista to the mix, meaning a morning with scrambled eggs, cheese, strips of tortilla, and shredded brisket is close at hand. It’s always a smart idea to add a couple of flour tortillas to the mix (and some avocado on top), but either way these migas are an awesome way to at least start having a good day. Whatever happens after is anyone’s guess. 4624 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. —Farley Elliott

There’s something about an early evening hang that feels just right these days now that the sun lingers until just before dinnertime. The good folks at Rossoblu serve up a small menu from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily featuring choice cocktails and wines-by-the-glass, as well as salty-crunchy bites to pair with them. It’s a highly civilized affair that soaks up the season in the best way. While it’s easy to overlook the Apennine fries when there are grilled pork meatballs to be had, the expert move here is to order one of each. Sip a glass of sparkling rosé while digging into the ultimate fried spuds made from Kennebec potatoes, drizzled in balsamic vinegar, and speckled with deep-fried herbs. The texture will knock your socks off. 1124 San Julian St, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Let’s be real, cauliflower isn’t the greatest vegetable. The crunchy texture is the only thing really going for it, and even though it seems like many LA restaurants feature this vegetable on their menu, it largely falls short. The lone exception is the charred cauliflower at Tesse. I’ll admit that my dining partner insisted on this dish, otherwise I would have missed the flavorful accompanying harissa, cucumber, and pomegranate which combines perfectly with the wood-fired cauliflower. It’s fresh, filling, and gorgeous to look at. 8500 Sunset Blvd. Ste. B, West Hollywood. —Mona Holmes

Sugarfish is essentially a known quantity in Los Angeles these days, with fantastic quality fish and heavily seasoned rice that’s beloved across town. The newest addition to the menu called “Don’t Think, Just Eat,” is a solid shift away from its standard “Trust Me” or “Nozawa” menus with a lot more variation and interesting cuts for a very reasonable price. Here, the menu is $52 for two sashimi plates, 16 pieces of nigiri with all different preparations, and a lobster hand roll to finish. Although it’s the most expensive option on the Sugarfish menu, it’s also the best deal especially when you compare this to what a similar option would cost at a restaurant like Sasabune or Sushi Park. After tax and a fixed 16% service charge, it’s a hair under $70 per person at Sugarfish.

The sushi here doesn’t necessarily rank in the same playing field, and the results are a little obvious in the construction. Fish barely sits atop the warm rice, a signature Nozawa feature, instead of fitting in nicely. It’s mostly so the warm rice doesn’t overcook the fish, but eating the sushi, even with fingers, is an exercise in keeping the nigiri together. Also, the non-aged nature of the cuts means the flavor won’t quite stay long on the palate like what one might experience at Kura in West Hollywood or Q in Downtown. But considering the ubiquity of this omakase course, its fantastic price point, and nine-out-of-ten quality of fish, it’s hard to complain. For anyone wanting the proper step up in quality for sushi, this is the ideal place to start. 4722 Admiralty Way, Marina Del Rey. —Matthew Kang

Beverly Hills is a lot of things to a lot of people. It’s a bastion of wealth in sprawling Los Angeles; a destination for camera-toting tourists looking to gawk at handbags; and a home for classic restaurants that still find themselves with something to offer. That’s certainly the case with the Grill on the Alley, the 35-year-old mainstay for the rich, powerful, and often famous. One unsung hero of the place, though, may well be the key lime pie for dessert. It’s tart, tangy, and decadent without being too powerful, making it an ideal finisher for a warm pre-summer meal just steps from Rodeo Drive. 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. —Farley Elliott

The most exciting dishes are the ones that don’t play by the rules, delighting with palate-pleasing combinations that defy expectations. Chef Teresa Montaño’s boquerones y mantequilla brings together fruits of the land and sea with expert flare and funk. Pickled fresh white anchovies—meaty and tangy as all get out—are paired with whipped butter punctuated with tuna and anchovy. The oily and oceanic ingredients, carefully propped and slathered atop crusty loaves of Bub and Grandma’s bread, get better and better with each bite. 5715 North Figueroa St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s a shame Nyesha Arrington’s Native permanently closed yesterday. Her Santa Monica restaurant was a gorgeous addition to the Westside, with plushy seating, cozy nooks, and a killer, youthful playlist. Arrington’s menu leaned heavily on fresh produce from the adjacent Santa Monica Farmers Market. While her confit fingerling potatoes with dry-aged beef fat were very good, they came in a close second to the beef and broccoli. With bone marrow as the centerpiece, the dish also featured blistered garlic with a Thai shallot-hoisin sauce for the broccolini. Even though it was Native’s final day of service, Arrington’s staff still kept things professional with fantastic service and execution. 620 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica. —Mona Holmes

Nightshade continues to grow its menu of Asian-inspired dishes with some shareable larger format fare like this blackened, slow-cooked short rib that very much resembles something one would find at a Texas barbecue joint. Served sliced and assembled atop the bone, think of this as a sort of mash between Chinese and Korean barbecue, with the pickles on the side. The rib meat boasts a slightly sweet, soy-like glaze that isn’t the least bit smoky, and Nightshade chef Mei Lin serves the hulking rib with butter lettuce to wrap like ssam.

Though the pickles do a sufficient job of cutting through the rich meat, which isn’t the least bit smoky, one wonders what a small bowl of fermented kimchi would do. Either way, the entry point of this sits around $75 depending on the weight, and shares nicely with a table of two to four. For a menu that tends to highlight vegetables, fish, or pasta, it’s great to have a substantial protein finish to a meal here. 923 E. 3rd St. #109, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

The namesake noodles at Noodle Harmony are certainly worth one’s while — the Chengdu-style dry noodles and dan dan mian are particularly good — but don’t overlook the small list of cold dishes also on offer. Eaten communally and heaped with things like jellyfish, cucumber, and bean curd, the cooling platters complement the tremendous strands. The “pork ear in chili oil dressing” makes for the best kind of starter, striking the ideal balance between flavor and heft, piquing appetites without diminishing them. The ears, snappy yet smooth, arrive perfumed with classic Sichuan ma and la with a hint of sweetness. 735 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s hard to find a better bite or two in LA right now than the shrimp fries from the Mariscos El Bigoton truck in East LA. That’s not to say one should indulge in the entire $15 Styrofoam container as a standalone meal; it would be practically impossible and unadvisable health-wise. But for a few glorious forkfuls, the confluence of french fries and savory sauce and sauteed shrimp is mind-bendingly appropriate for a sunny weekend day. Pull up a stool, be sure to grab a complete bite (that includes avocado and cheese, naturally) and enjoy the glories of street food in Los Angeles. 5458 Whittier Blvd., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott

It would be a sin to forgo the pizza and pasta at Cal Mare, which are masterfully handmade by chef Adam Sobel and define the coastal Italian menu. However, it would be a greater misdeed to overlook the restaurant’s specials, like the Roman-style artichoke. This traditional dish is an understated star, with artichoke, mortadella, and pistachio carefully drenched with a flavorful salsa verde and a touch of citrus. It’s a layered and hearty dish that takes you by surprise, and easily pairs with wine recommended by Sobel’s attentive staff. 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 115, Beverly Hills. —Mona Holmes

Spoon by H is the totally unsung but now highly blown up Korean restaurant on Beverly nearby La Brea Avenue thanks to one David Chang, who blasted the place on his Instagram and podcast as his favorite restaurant of the past year. On weekends, the place is absolutely slammed, but on weekdays it’s a bit more mellow. The food is basically Korean comfort food, the kind a grandma or mom would make, but with a heavy dose of pizzazz. Is it life changing? It depends on your experience with Korean food, and how much you would worship something like an amazing dumpling and rice cake soup (dukmandu guk).

What’s different about Spoon by H’s version here starts with wonderfully crimped and assembled dumplings placed into a garlicky, almost milky broth covered with vegetables, chili flakes, and fried wonton strips that feels more substantial that a homemade version. There’s a sense that Spoon by H is messing around with the Korean food canon in a thoughtful, measured way that would still appeal to the neophyte. The hype machine is truly on for Spoon by H, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t warranted. 7158 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

There’s always something new to discover around any corner in Los Angeles, especially for those willing to take side streets and spend a little time staring out the window. Case in point: The new tacos al carbon stand at the corner of Violet Street and Mateo in the Arts District. It’s little more than a pop-up tent, salsa bar, charcoal grill, and single table, but that’s all that one could ever need when dining out on quick-service cecina tacos imbued with lots of smoke. Lace over some avocado salsa and fiery roja for maximum effect, then drip with lime and hover over the plate. In Los Angeles, it can (and is) as simple as that. Tacos al Carbon at Violet and Mateo, Arts District. —Farley Elliott

With noodles, rice bowls, and thousand-layer pancakes to be had, it’s no wonder that most folks stumble out of Joy properly stuffed and likely without dessert. But hold back a little on the savories because the hakka mochi is worthy of one’s precious gastro-real estate. Served alongside mugs of warm tea, the mound of mochi arrive dusted in peanut and black sesame powder. While the former tastes something like a sticky PayDay bar, the latter is just bitter enough to counter its neighbor’s nutty sweetness. Speared with a bamboo toothpick and eaten one-by-one, the flavors and textures delight until the sizable mound whittles into a mole hill and then disappears all together. 5100 York Blvd, Highland Park. —Cathy Chaplin

After standing witness as friends were married in front of a Norwalk judge, the new husband and wife suggested we dine at the “Happiest Place On Earth” to celebrate. A quick drive brought us to Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen, the Bourbon Street-themed eatery in Downtown Disney. Champagne was required, as was sitting outdoors at a table with mardi gras beads. With its dark roux and slow heat that only revealed itself 30 seconds after each bite, the gumbo ya-ya chicken was a pleasant surprise and made me reconsider whether solid food choices were available at Disney. With options like this, it’s entirely possible to get a small taste of Disneyland without paying the park fees. 1590 South Disneyland Drive, Anaheim. —Mona Holmes

Josef Centeno’s refined restaurant Orsa & Winston is perhaps the most underrated place to eat Downtown. The unassuming, elegant interior doesn’t try to grab one’s attention. Brunch is the easiest entry point to the menu (though weekday lunch is also really accessible), with easy-to-like dishes like a fantastic castelfranco and kale salad, imbued with a tart Meyer lemon vinaigrette and smoky bacon. A fluffy Tehapachi grain pancake is only bested by the Instagram-friendly Japanese souffle pancake topped with hyper-local honey (like, from Downtown) and Harry’s Berries since they just came back in season. But the salmon ochazuke successfully melds a homey Japanese morning dish with some of Centeno’s creative flair. He takes slow cooked salmon that still features a sashimi-like tenderness, topping it with steamed seaweed, spicy Calabrian chile, and a green tea dashi. Growing up, my mother made me something similar for breakfast — pan-fried salmon with barley tea-soaked rice. Centeno’s version seriously took me back to the purest kind of comfort food. 122 West 4th St., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

The life of a food writer is a lot of things. It’s about sitting in front of a computer, or sitting in a car on the way to a conversation and then a computer, or eating a lot of food. It’s fun, rewarding, and often unglamorous, despite the Instagram shots. And it’s also the kind of thing that can compound over the years to become a real problem, physically and mentally. So, every once in a while, the cheesy breakfast burritos need to take a backseat to some wonderfully grilled salmon set on a bowl of greens from a place like Urban Radish, the healthy-eating oasis in the Arts District. The outdoor grill is hidden behind a row of water-circulating vertical planters brimming with kale and other greens. Look through the foliage to find one man and a stack of tickets. Skirt steak, salmon, chicken; it all hits the hot metal and gets served over healthy grains and greens to a slew of daytime diners who just don’t need another taco, sandwich, or bowl of udon. It’s not about being a perfectly healthy eater every day, it’s about making the right (and still delicious) choices sometimes, and learning to just live the rest of the time. 661 Imperial St., Arts District. —Farley Elliott

Here at chef Kuniko Yagi’s fried chicken spot, the signature clucks are served with house-made pickles, a trio of sauces, and a choice of fingerling fries or ginger onigiri. Don’t be tempted to pass over the seemingly straightforward seaweed-wrapped rice balls for the crispy spuds. While the potatoes are perfectly lovely, and the fried chicken too, it is the onigiri — glossy and glutinous — that deserves your attention. The gentle warmth of fresh ginger permeates each grain, while a sheet of nori holds everything together. Hand held and comforting, what more could one ask for in a side dish? 767 South Alameda St. Suite 122, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

LA’s surprise hail, snow, or graupel storm landed throughout the city last week, and with it came some very cool temperatures. Even though the mercury is slowly moving upwards, the lows will remain in the 40s for the time being. The right kind of food can assist with staying warm, like the slack season noodles with sesame scallion bread at Vivian Ku’s Joy in Highland Park. This traditional Taiwanese soup starts with a flavorful chicken and pork base, with minced pork, plenty of garlic, and hearty noodles with a slight bite added to it. Topped with a single shrimp and scallions, these noodles should be eaten quickly in Joy’s cozy dining room as if your warmth depends on it. 5100 York Blvd, Highland Park. —Mona Holmes

Mei Lin’s suave Arts District restaurant feels like a gem, tucked away from the street and shoeboxed into a big brick building. Inside, it glows with warmth from the kitchen and the dim lighting but feels modern with hanging indoor plants and royal green banquettes. The menu inches toward a more complete picture of Lin’s vision of craveworthy Asian-American dishes, and this latest addition of squid ink bucatini is no exception. Anyone who’s had zhajianmian, the Northern Chinese classic noodle dish with savory minced pork, will understand the context of this pasta. Instead of hand-pulled noodles, it’s tubular bucatini in an arresting black color, sauced with cuttlefish bolognese instead of pork, and simmering with the gentle heat of Korean gochujang. It’s truly a clever dish that might get overlooked by the mapo pork lasagna or shrimp toast. 923 E 3rd Street, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

While most restaurants don’t put too much creativity into their brunch menus, relying on standbys like Bloody Mary’s and eggs Benedict to fuel weekend crowds, chef Jonathan Whitener is bringing fresh ideas and energy to the table. Take for instance his coconut waffle with koji, blueberries, ume (Japanese salty plums), and smoked maple syrup. At first glance, it looks like a fine enough Belgian waffle topped with whipped cream and a berry compote. But the first bite reveals that there is far more here than meets the eye. The coconut waffle, impossibly light and airy, delivers an avalanche of unexpected savory and funky notes, on top of the anticipated sweetness. This dish is far more interesting than it needs to be, going above and beyond the brunch-time status quo. Respect the waffle. 3901 West 6th Street, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

In the ever-growing Los Angeles barbecue scene, the middle class is shrinking. Most places that have been around for years are, frankly, just okay, and others are downright bad. Of late, though, there has been a rush to the top from places like Ragtop Fern’s and Slab and Ugly Drum and Ray’s BBQ, with the family-run Moo’s Craft Barbecue reaching for the summit. It’s easy to see them planting their flag at the crest, thanks to insanely luscious brisket and pull-apart ribs, smoked to a Texas tenderness and offered with East L.A. sides and a smile. Check them out Sundays at Smorgasburg in Downtown; the line is worth it, if only for that barky brisket alone. 787 S. Alameda St., Downtown. —Farley Elliott

The SoCal air is so chilly at the moment, so order Guerrilla Tacos’ piping hot bowl of smoked beef cheeks to stay warm. It’s a gorgeous broth with perfectly sized bits of meat that has been smoked for upwards of six hours using a blend of cherry, hickory, and oak woods. For the broth, chef Wes Avila brings together veal bones, dashi, ginger, scallions, and lemongrass. The tomato-based casero-style salsa packs some heat, so add your preferred amount of this salsa and meat to the thick, gordita-like flour tortillas. Pro-tip: save some tortillas for sopping up the broth. The bottom of the bowl comes with an added bonus: the incredible feeling of getting the chill out of your bones. 2000 E. 7th Street, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Now that LA’s best new taco stand is situated in a highly visible location in Koreatown, it’s the best time to stop by during weekdays. Parking is a bit of a challenge, but circle around and street parking is usually never more than two blocks away. The tacos are getting more polished, better-seasoned, and better-constructed after the stand’s press-riddled first few weeks of operation. The carne asada picks up a little bit more smoky char while the adobada often gets more time on the flat top grill. The hand made tortillas are still excellent, as good as one would find in Baja. Ask nicely for the chicharron de queso con hongos, and a beautiful golden brown tortilla made of only cheese comes with the stand’s excellent mushrooms. The best part about Tacos 1986 is its accessibility, placed right in the heart of Koreatown, which itself is a crossroads for anyone traveling to Hollywood or Downtown, South LA, or Mid-City. What’s better than a taco pit stop? 611 S Western Ave, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

Dining at a brand new restaurant certainly has its pitfalls, namely slower than optimal service, but it also has its immense thrills. When a late-night OpenTable search yielded prime seating at the less-than-two-week-old Tartine Bianco, it was impossible not to squeal just a bit and then take the plunge, even with all the potential pitfalls considered. While the menu is still a work-in-progress, the chicken liver toast is an early stand out and quite possibly the most thoughtful dish of the evening. The base of the matter, a crusty slice of the restaurant’s famous bread, sturdily held onto the pretty pink liver, as well as dollops of kumquat puree and blood orange segments. Balance comes among the varied components, hitting the brightest of notes with just enough richness to bring it home. 787 South Alameda St Unit 120, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

Majordomo continues to churn out excellent large format dishes like this gorgeous roast duck served over crispy rice. Embedded underneath the rice are pieces of shredded duck, roasted turnips, and dates; a server pours duck-citrus broth over the whole thing tableside. The dish feels vaguely Korean, with its crispy rice, duck, and tender turnips that exude the fragrance of Korean daikon radish. The restaurant might eventually change the dish’s format in the future, with a cook slicing the duck breast in front of diners at their table. While this dish won’t replace the incredible smoked short ribs as the restaurant’s most impressive large format dish, it does provide a more approachable option for smaller groups. 1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA —Matthew Kang

Jame Enoteca is well on its way to becoming a new kind of standard for the city of El Segundo. The corner strip mall option makes all of its pastas in-house and keeps a cozy but refined sort of vibe, which is exactly what’s needed in the squeezed-in neighborhood, bounded by LAX, the ocean, and a refinery to the south. Of particular noteworthiness (though all of the pastas seem to be pretty delicious) is the off-menu occasional lasagna with assorted foraged mushrooms. The skillet-style entree is big, rich, and crispy at the edges from a proper oven cook that doesn’t dry the whole thing out. Pair it up with some vegetables to start and maybe a glass of wine, and be well on the way to a very full and very relaxed time in the South Bay. 241 Main St., El Segundo. —Farley Elliott

With open seating and rapid rounds of sushi hitting plates at the square communal seating area, KazuNori is the place to find some of the LA’s freshest fishes. It’s not uncommon to find a long line, which can be surprisingly short thanks to the restaurant’s efficiency. Choose from three to six hand rolls, which are made in plain view. And while many return for the blue crab hand rolls, the seasonal New Zealand sea bream hand roll shouldn’t be overlooked. The chefs transform the sea bream’s tender flesh and shiny silver skin into an elegant and perfect hand roll. Order a Sapporo and watch the chefs do their magic. 421 S. Main Street Los Angles. —Mona Holmes

It’s always nice to return to a standard-bearing restaurant and find it largely as it has always been: busy, happy, humming, and delicious. That was certainly the case with Chengdu Taste last week, when some Eater colleagues made the trip for all things spicy, tingly, and familiar. Despite the years of immense press and increased competition from other Sichuan restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, Chengdu Taste’s details continue to impress. The toothpick lamb is just as meaty, spicy, and craveable as ever, especially when paired against plates piled high with steamed vegetables and fish and peppers. The wontons are always a hit too, but there’s just something so classically alluring about that toothpick lamb. It’s nice to see old friends again. 3233 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra. —Farley Elliott

Chateau Hanare is one of the most underrated openings of the past year. This elegant standalone in West Hollywood comes from NYC restaurateur Reika Alexander who also owns En Brasserie in West Village. Alexander’s cuisine is classically Japanese, both fitting of a kaiseki meal in its ambition and subtlety, and izakaya-like with its more approachable dishes. Consider the nanban fried chicken, karaage-style chicken pieces served with a mound of creamy Japanese tartar sauce, shaved green onions, and a pool of ginger, carrot, and garlic-soy marinade. With so many refined dishes to try here, from the fresh tofu to the raw octopus with seaweed, it’s nice to dive into a heaping plate of fried chicken to bring everything back to earth. 8097 Selma Ave, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

On Vermont just south of Franklin, there’s a strip of Los Feliz restaurants that don’t turnover very often. Until Atrium came along last fall, these spots tended to stick around for eons and kept the neighborhood in a bit of a holding pattern. It’s amazing what owners Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken did to the space and what chef Hunter Pritchett created with the menu. Pritchett’s flavors are unique and strong, just the way Angelenos like it. The beef carpaccio, inspired by the chef’s love of carne asada, is topped with crispy potato matchsticks, a thick salsa macha, and avocado crema. Those crunchy, salty, and savory layers makes for fun eating, but one plate might not be enough. 1816A N. Vermont Ave Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Here at the Alhambra outpost of this local chainlet, patrons wait up to two hours during peak dining times to get their hands good and dirty from the restaurant’s famous spice-rubbed crayfish. Before the main event arrives in a plastic sack, tables are covered in butcher paper and bibs are tied around necks. In addition to classic crayfish are king crab legs, snow crab legs, blue crab, shrimp, clams, Dungeness crab, and lobster; everything is sold by the pound. Crustaceans come spiced in original “Rajun Cajun,” lemon pepper, garlic butter, or “The Whole Shebang,” a delectable combination of all three. For those unaccustomed to eating mudbugs, just rip off their heads, suck out the juices, break the tails lengthwise, and pull out the meat. 742 West Valley Blvd., Alhambra. —Cathy Chaplin

While fancy, chef-driven hamburgers are all the rage around town, fancy, chef-driven hot dogs are a rarity. Chef Daniel Humm knows a thing or two about dialing up the humble hotdog to an 11. First comes a bacon-wrapped, all-beef, deep-fried hotdog, followed by a tangy celery relish made with half-sour pickles, pickled mustard seeds, and a bit of black truffle. Next up is a layer of melted gruyere cheese, and finally, the plushiest of brioche buns schmeared with truffle mayonnaise. The juxtaposition of digging into a suped-up hotdog in the NoMad’s formal library setting feels wonderfully fitting somehow. 649 S Olive St, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin

The katsu sando trend continues to grow unabated in Los Angeles, and it’s a boon for casual diners looking for a filling dish that doesn’t take itself too seriously. So consider the lunchtime special at Umi by Hamasaku, the South Bay offshoot of the well-regarded West LA sushi restaurant, which serves a panko-fried yellowtail with jalapeno, yuzu mayo, cabbage, and yuzu vinaigrette on Hawaiian sweet bread. Think of it as an upgraded Filet-O-Fish with delicious flakey fish and plush bread. The shoestring fries served on the side could’ve been crispier, but the star of the plate, that katsu sando, is worth swooning over. 860 South Sepulveda Blvd. #116, El Segundo, CA 90245 —Matthew Kang

At the Belvedere restaurant inside Beverly Hills’ Peninsula Hotel, pastry chef Lia Benedetto created the showstopper Faberge Egg. The chocolate egg sits upright with perfect ovular holes, edible paint, and gold foil. A firm whack of a spoon sends it all tumbling down to reveal the insides, which on this night was filled with orange liquor gelée, blood orange mousse, dulcey crunch, citrus supremes, blood orange coconut sorbet, and chantilly cream. The egg’s flavors rotate as the seasons do. 9882 South Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills. —Mona Holmes

With last week’s untimely closure of Sotto, Los Angeles has lost one of its most heralded Italian restaurants — to say nothing of a top-five pizza destination in the city. So what is one to do in the face of such a loss? Get as close to the original as possible with Ronan on Melrose. The restaurant, run by husband and wife team Daniel and Caitlin Cutler, is something of an unofficial spiritual successor to Sotto, as the Cutlers met and fell in love there before starting their own project last year. Daniel Cutler ran the pizza oven at Sotto for years, and is still turning out blistered pies with inventive toppings alongside a full bar. There are lemony meatballs, crudos, and other fun starters to round out any meal, but for those really craving cheese, dough, fire, and memory, it’s all about the pizza at Ronan. 7315 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott

Chef Becky Reams partnered with string quartet Salastina to throw a Game of Thrones dinner last Saturday at her daytime restaurant Lately. The candlelit dining room was filled with sharply dressed diners channeling the Mother of Dragons, Robert Baratheon, and Littlefinger. To signal the start of each course, Salastina played gorgeous arrangements from the show. For the first course, Reams created a pigeon pie inspired by King Joffrey and Margaery’s wedding. The pithivier was comprised of two disks of puff pastry filled with chicken, bacon, celery, onion, aromatics, and bechamel. While the pie was satisfyingly savory, the music made the room swoon. 970 N. Broadway, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes

Everyone’s buzzing about Mei Lin’s newly opened Nightshade and for good reason — the food is fantastic while the space feels just right for the neighborhood. The menu is chock full of unexpected Asian American mashups, from the mapo tofu lasagna to the shrimp toast and best of all, the tom yum onion. Outback Steakhouse’s iconic appetizer gets the Top Chef treatment—expertly fried, Thai-spiced, and served with an airy coconut dip. It’s hard not to feel just a little giddy unfurling the onion’s copious layers. It’s best to share this dish with a group of four, but don’t hold back, two-tops. It’s worth waddling out of the restaurant for. 923 E 3rd St #109, Los Angeles, CA. —Cathy Chaplin

It’s hard to overestimate just how popular the new Jon & Vinny’s in Brentwood will be. Or, in fact, already is. Fans and locals have been breathing on the glass, desperate for a glimpse inside, for the better part of the past two months, and now the white oak interior is buffed and shining. The star staff is shining too, turning out all-day menu items immediately, from olive oil eggs to pizzas and pastas and really, really awesome wines. A surefire breakfast winner is the BLT, a $16 beast on Gjusta bread that comes with lots of bacon, gorgeous tomatoes, and a runny fried egg. It’s best split with a friend (and some pancakes on the side), but can also be eaten alone for maximum mid-week breakfast decadence in Brentwood, on Fairfax, or — soon — around the globe. 11938 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood. —Farley Elliott

With rain pouring down all week long, friends participating in Whole 30 or “Drynuary,” and a new year in full swing, there’s only one thing to do immediately: eat comfort food. There’s plenty to choose from throughout the city, but this time Dulan’s will do. The choices are traditional and solid with mac and cheese, greens, fried chicken, and peach cobbler — but the lemon icebox pie is where it’s at. The combination of lemon juice, eggs, and condensed milk in a pie crust is reminiscent of key lime pie, but truly and uniquely a Southern masterpiece. Get a slice at all three locations for Dulan’s unless they sell out. 4859 Crenshaw Blvd, Los Angeles, CA. —Mona Holmes

In a world of big, buzzy openings, heatmaps, and waiting lists, it’s a true comfort to slide into a seat at Mini Kabob in Glendale. The absolutely tiny storefront south of the Americana has become something of a cult favorite, and for good reason. Platters of freshly grilled kabobs, lamb chops, and veggies always make for a great group meal, but at Mini Kabob it’s basically an all-hands-on-deck kind of family affair. Meats are offered with roasted eggplant ikra, thick smears of whipped garlic, lots of hummus, and plenty of lavash bread for pulling, grabbing, dipping, and enjoying. Places like Mini Kabob are the true heart and soul of eating in Los Angeles, especially on rainy days when a warm meal and good friends are of paramount importance. 313 1/2 Vine St., Glendale, CA. —Farley Elliott

There’s been more rain this week than any other in recent memory and that means plenty of noodle soup for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Pho and ramen are always solid standbys, but this week it’s been all about bun bo Hue, a spicy Vietnamese beef noodle soup with lemongrass. The stadium-sized bowls at Nha Trang are one of the best to be had this side of the Pacific. Mingling with the thin, slippery rice noodles are fist-sized pork trotters, cubes of congealed blood, and slices of pleasantly gristly beef. Comfort and warmth in a bowl. 311 E Valley Blvd., Ste. 103, San Gabriel, CA. —Cathy Chaplin

One of the perks of this gig is being the first to know about new openings and happenings. Smosh Town set up shop over the holidays in the shadows of Gabriel’s Auto in Pasadena. While street-side tacos are a common sight around town, street-side burgers are quite the novelty. There are only two burgers on the menu: the Smosh Town Classic with raw onions, cheese, pickles, mustard, and ketchup, and The O’s Way with grilled onions and all the fixings. Both are priced at $7 and are made with Wagyu beef. Each burger comes with two smashed patties, crisp and caramelized around the edges, as well as two slices of all American Cheese. Burgers begin coming off the flattop at 7 p.m. and the entire operation closes once everything is sold out. Be prepared to wait up to 30 minutes for food to be ready depending on the size of the evening’s crowd. 250 N Hill Ave, Pasadena, CA. —Cathy Chaplin

Crustacean’s Dungeness crab, roasted, garlic-infused, and served out of the shell or cracked in shell, is truly a marvel for anyone who grew up eating this specialty at Cantonese restaurants. Crustacean’s version isn’t necessarily leaps and bounds better than what one would find in SGV or Orange County, but this version boasts quite a bit of finesse, from the pre-cracked shell (it’s always more fun to scoop the meat out of the shell, right?), to the excellent and endlessly-imitated garlic noodles on the side (which costs $15 extra). Crustacean is certainly pricey, with the Dungeness crab running $78 an order, though it’s generous enough for three adults or a nuclear family of four. With an updated, if slightly tacky, dining room, Crustacean still carries its mid-1990s character well, and it’s always a bonus to see the regal Helene An working the room on choice nights. 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA. —Matthew Kang

Having family in town is always a great excuse to retread old favorites, even if they haven’t fallen anywhere close to out of favor. That’s certainly the case with Howlin’ Ray’s, the unstoppable Nashville hot chicken paradise in Chinatown. The line, the Howlin’-level wings, the service...it’s all a rite of passage for folks coming through the city, especially when it’s a wide-eyed little brother from the wilds of upstate New York. And despite the allure of the simple fried chicken sandwich, the impressive move for newcomers will always be going off-menu, playing the part of insider and scoring a box of medium-heat Mario-style fries. Soaked in slaw, cheese, Comeback sauce, pickles, and cut-up chicken, the fries are a welcome mat to the city of Los Angeles, offered one bite at a time. 727 N. Broadway, Chinatown, CA. —Farley Elliott

Sometimes, a line just feels like a line. It’s easy to walk past people queuing up for boba tea or avocado toast and, with a roll of the eyes and a light snicker, to dismiss the work being done inside. With Dave’s Hot Chicken on Western, the line can seem — from the outside at least — like a branding win, or a bit of Instagram magic. But inside the energy is palpable, a room filled with real people actually enjoying themselves outside of the saturation of social media. There are plenty of photos being taken of those hot chicken tender sliders, naturally, but the most important thing is that the food actually works for the intended audience. The well-spiced fries, the cheese-laced chicken, and the varying levels of heat all work here, to delicious effect. Add in some beer and a crowd that’s happy to be in the room, and this world starts to make a little more sense. At first glance a place like Dave’s may not feel like it’s for everyone, but stop and look a little closer next time. 970 Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA. —Farley Elliott

Is there a better birthday meal than grilled beef? And does grilled beef get any better than dry-aged wagyu? Tamaen, a standard-issue Japanese barbecue joint all the way down in Lomita, is one of the few places to find the rare beef, though it’s served in a ridiculously small portion in a ridiculously grandiose tableside presentation. Is it worth the $150 for a total of seven ounces of meat? Probably not. A trip to In-N-Out might be a necessary post-meal “snack.” But in terms of pure beefy deliciousness, it’s hard to argue with Tamaen’s quality, which is virtually perfect.

One can see the influence of yakiniku in places like New York City’s Michelin-starred Cote, and a number of other high-end Korean barbecues sprouting up around LA’s Koreatown: that the more expensive wagyu and American dry-aged stuff is becoming more desirable. Here’s a recommendation: come to Tamaen, order a more reasonably priced meat set, and splurge for one serving of the dry-aged wagyu. Grill it gently on the tabletop fire to give it a tinge of smoky flavor and browning then dip into the sweet soy sauce. The bite bursts with glorious rice beef fat and finishes with the nutty, profound flavors of dry-aged goodness. It’s a beautiful time to be alive. Tamaen, 1935 Pacific Coast Hwy, Lomita, CA. —Matthew Kang

My husband and I managed to finally throw our four-year-old a proper birthday party this past weekend. It took place four weeks late, but it’s the thought that counts, right? Cooking for a crowd is something best left up to professionals, so to supplement the birthday cake that came out of our home kitchen, I turned to Golden Deli to handle the hard stuff. I wasn’t sure how well their wares would travel, but everything turned out stupendously, particularly the cha gio, which were blistered on the outside and somehow even more delicious dipped in fish sauce. So while the children bounced ‘till their heart’s content, the parental set piled plates high with cold vermicelli noodles, grilled shrimp paste, and the best cha gio in LA. Golden Deli, 815 W Las Tunas Dr., San Gabriel, CA. —Cathy Chaplin

Grand Central Market’s magic is all about the selection. A group visit ensures that everyone will get what they want, since no one is required to eat the same thing. Vegetarians can head straight to Ramen Hood, while meat eaters wait in line for carnitas from Tacos Tumbras a Tomas or at Belcampo Meat Co. They have a six seat counter, but that’s no problem. Send your crew to grab their favorites, order the lamb burger and a beer, and grab a table in the main hall near G & B Coffee. Belcampo’s lamb burger is an imperfect, messy patty smeared with black garlic aioli and onion sprouts. And let’s be real, organic and grass-fed is the way to go for juicy, medium-rare meat, as the source comes straight from their farm in Mt. Shasta. Grand Central Market 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA. —Mona Holmes

When walking around Olive and 7th, make a detour through the NoMad. Better yet, if you have an extra hour or two, take a seat in the lobby dining room and order lunch. NoMad is gorgeous from the morning hours until nighttime, but taking in all those details with sunlight is worth a visit. Settle into one of the plush red and blue sofas and observe the exalted ceilings, art, and built-in bookcases. It’s not necessary to dress up, but many do while ordering rounds of drinks, NoMad’s custom French 75, bottles of wine, or the kanpachi ceviche. It’s served in a round bowl with a slow burn, but the freshness is what you’ll notice most about this dish. Scoop up a bite with a spoon, butter lettuce, or thinly-sliced watermelon radish, while finding something new to behold in Downtown LA. 649 S. Olive St. Los Angeles, CA. — Mona Holmes

LA is already the best taco scene in America, but it’s still miles behind a city like Tijuana, which is one of the best tacos cities even in Mexico. Tacos 1986 serves an excellent rendition of TJ-style tacos in the heart of Hollywood, which is a massive boon for taco fans who live far away from the amazing South LA tacos of Tire Shop Taqueria. With handmade tortillas and actual grilled carne asada, the perrón is a direct version of the famous bean and cheese-filled taco of Rosarito’s El Yaqui.

Tacos 1986’s version is a bit smaller and more manageable versus Rosarito’s massive flour tortilla taco, though 1986’s version sports a similar thin tortilla to match the original. Loaded with diced carne asada and a dollop of guacamole, it’s reminiscent of what Loqui used to serve in Culver City before it had to shut down its grilling operation due to neighbor complaints. Tacos 1986 is already drawing massive crowds for its social media-first approach to marketing, but the word of mouth is spreading quickly too. Get there early to beat those lines. 1200 N Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA. —Matthew Kang

Truth be told, I haven’t dined at Rustic Canyon since the days when Evan Funke was serving up drippy burgers on Monday nights circa 2011. However, I recently picked up a copy of current chef Jeremy Fox’s On Vegetables, and after zipping through the forward and skimming some of the recipes, I immediately made dinner reservations for two. I wanted to taste the cooking of a chef who had finally found peace and balance in a professional kitchen. The duck ham on rye with preserved kumquat and salted spruce, essentially an open-faced sandwich, was as thoughtful as it was delicious. The citrusy puddles delighted with each bite. 1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA. —Cathy Chaplin

With the holiday season comes a sprouting of Christmas tree sale sites, billowing bushels of suddenly green space occupying former parking lots and open bits of leftover land. There’s a particularly large site situated at Figueroa and York in Highland Park, alongside some midway-style games and other fun kicks for families to enjoy. And, almost just across the street, is Highland Park’s newest street taco setup. The unbranded stand carries all the significant signifiers: Bright string lights, a spinning trompo turning al pastor meat, and a separate table just for salsas and sides.

The bonus here is the drum-style open grill, where wide patches of carne asada cook fast over charcoal. The resulting setup is perhaps just as alluring (or more so) than the red and green streamers and holiday music from around the corner, at least to weary Angelenos returning home from a long trip abroad. Like any of the thousands of other largely unheralded street stands that operate nightly across Los Angeles County, this place does the classics well, and serves its community precisely where and when it’s needed most. Add in the adjoining churro guy who works Friday through Sunday nights, and the whole station becomes just another part of the fantastic fabric of Los Angeles, holidays or not. 6326 N. Figueroa, Highland Park, CA. — Farley Elliot

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Your handy guide on where to eat from the editors at Eater LA

The world-famous chef will open a rooftop restaurant and bar at the Trust Building next fall

Pizzas and pastas in Pasadena, Sichuan in Koreatown, and more

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